It’s like a little city inside a big city

This summer, I get to spend a couple of months dogsitting in one of Paris’ many beautiful neighborhoods.

I’ve been to Paris so many times over the years. The first time I came, in 2004, I was so disappointed I thought I’d never return. But I did keep coming back, and each time it grows on me a little more.

It’s certainly not the center of Paris and the beautiful landmarks there that pull me in. This is in obvious contrast to Rome, where I love the central areas and the gorgeous historical site around every corner. The crowds of tourists do overwhelm me a bit, but I just find so much inspiration wandering around, that I can ignore them to an extent.

In Paris, for some reason, I do not have the same experience. These central areas— the 1st and most of the 8th arrondissements— I’ve learned I can only handle in very small doses. If I don’t overextend my time there, then I can really enjoy the city.

Last time I was here I stayed in the 18th, in Montmartre, north of Sacre Coeur. It really felt alive and buzzing and interesting there, with lots to see and do and eat. I thought I had found my favorite area and wanted to come back.

But I had yet to stay here in the 17th, near (but not in) Batignolles, in the middle of summer.

It’s somehow how quiet and calm, while also active and thriving. You can walk in any direction and be surrounded by impressive architecture. Five minutes away is Batignolles, where it feels like an energetic village with organic vegetable markets out on the street and great shopping and the cutest restaurants. Or 5 minutes in another direction and you’ll be at the elegant Parc Monceau.

You hardly hear any English or notice any tourists. For me, this is great because I’m given the chance to actually practice my French. In other parts of Paris, if Parisians have even the slightest inclination you might not be French, they automatically switch to English. Not everyone, of course, but enough that it makes it hard to work the language muscles.

The sidewalks are big and the avenues are broad, perfect for walking a dog or pushing a stroller. And it’s flat- no having to walk up and down endless stairs, like in other parts of the city. People seem genuinely content and relaxed for the most part. And there are so many trees everywhere making it easy to find shade. Even the train tracks near here are surrounded on both sides by a mini forest.

We’ve got tram and metro and RER stops easily accessible as well. But I haven’t wanted to use them, because I’m so enamored with how great the walking is. It’s like a whole other city, one that I much prefer to the other “Paris.” I even found the most wonderful gluten free bakery with the best bread I’ve had in my life, only an 8 minute walk away.

Granted, I’ve only been here a week, so we’ll see how I feel at the end of the summer. A heatwave might change my romantic notions. And when the French locals truly head out for the month of August, it might become a bit too quiet.

Before coming, I was worried about the heatwaves that Paris has been experiencing these last years. The old buildings and preservation laws don’t allow for most people to have AC, including where I’m staying. So I bought a “portable AC”, the type that holds a frozen water bottle and blows air through. Luckily I haven’t had to use it yet, as the windows and shutters do enough to keep the cool air in.

The first day I was here, I didn’t know there was a proper way to use the windows and shutters, so it did get too hot in the house. But here is what I learned:

In the morning, you keep the windows and shutters wide open, as long as there’s not direct sunlight coming in. If there is, you might partially close the shutters that are made to let air through. When the temperature starts to really go up outside, you close all the windows and all the shutters completely, sealing everything in. You open all the interior doors. In my case there’s an exception, where I have to close the door to the kitchen because the window in there has no shutters and gets a lot of afternoon sun.

You turn on the fans and dress accordingly. Then when the temperature starts to drop in the evenings, you open everything again. If there’s direct sunlight somewhere, you leave the shutters closed or partially closed and the windows open. And all night you leave it all open to cool down again. And in the morning start again.

Right now it’s around 84 degrees Fahrenheit outside and probably 70 degrees inside. So it does really work! I’ll have to check back in if we reach a heat wave that goes into the 90’s or above.

I just couldn’t be happier so far with the contrast this provides with life in Crete. I love my life there so much, but this just fills in the space with everything it’s missing. Immaculate grand buildings, city walking and parks, cool summer mornings, endless cuisine options from all over the world, and my own temporary sweet dog, providing me with cuddles and a walking buddy.